For the ones who don’t know, Finisterre, (Fisterra, ‘Cabo Fisterre’) and Muxia are two little towns known as ‘the end of the world’, situated on the Atlantic ocean in Galicia, Spain. It’s for walkers of the camino de Santiago a bonus, to walk on to one of these points. From Santiago you can walk there in about three days. Halfway you will meet a point where the road splits into a road to Muxia and one to Fisterra.
I was in Finisterre 3 times (in 2011, 2016 twice) and in Muxia (2016) 2 times. In 2011 I walked the camino Portugés and took a bus to Finisterre. In the spring of 2016 I walked the ‘camino Finisterre’ to Cabo Fisterre in a couple of days and visited both places. In the summer of 2016 I walked a part of the camino del Norte, camino Ingles and again the camino Finiterre and Muxia. Walking was magic. It was painful, I got injured and suffered on the camino del Norte from bed bugs, but I learned a lot, also about my strenght. I met wonderful people and had magical experiences. But why go there again and again and see both Finisterre and Muxia?
At that time I needed it, the walks and experiences. Clearing my head, being amongst nature and people. I walked parts alone and together. I would recommend anyone to go and walk there, at least once. Yes, I can write endlessly about the people and my adventures, but I might do that another time..
Muxia vs Cabo Fisterre
Being at the end of the world, Finis Terrae, Cabo Fisterre, was such a good feeling. I walked to the cabo from the village, a way of some km’s, in storm and pooring rain and went back while the wind blew me dry. I was there almost at sunset, with a clear view. Sitting on the rocks, looking over an endless and rough ocean.
In Muxia it was more solitary, it’s easy to walk from the village to the lighthouse. The village seems more asleep, quiet. The people very modest, silent. There’s another form of magic there. Massive rocks. You can actually touch the Atlantic ocean. A very intimate experience.
Fisterre is crowded, rougher, the people are more expressive and seem to have lived a tougher life. There’s a fishermen and bohemian culture. Many people, wanderers, tend to stick there. There are more spiritual minded people, hippie comunities and there’s a vivid legend of moving stones at Cabo Fisterre. The village itself looks not really charming, it’s a bit of a mess. But the energy is good. I once had a good conversation with a man early in the morning, he lived in Fisterre, had a hard life (came from North- Africa) but was happy. I remember having breakfast with him, where he had his coffee and liquor (spanish habit?) and I had my boiled eggs, toast and coffee. In wintertime it is the hardest, he said, the place is empty, most bars and restaurants are closed. No walkers, no tourists, no work.
Muxia is the opposite of Fisterre. Hardly any shops, a few restaurants and plenty of good, clean hostels. On the top of the rocks you have a really charming, soft colored view of the little town.
The people of both places are not the biggest friends. Even the bus schedule between both places is pointing this out; there’s a bad connection. You’d better walk.
Muxia is more peaceful, less people, more accesible. But also more elusive because of it’s silence.
The reason one should visit both places is to experience it whole, the contradiction and the paradox. It will make your camino complete. Just go and find out yourself! Take your time, eat pepers of Padron, octopus, just feel…
Restaurant Lecer, seafood, very nice owner, speaks English. The place looks like a cafeteria, but don’t worry, there is excellent and fresh seafood! If your lucky you can see the owner running in the mornings to the cabo or on the coast line. I celebrated my 40th birthday there with two camino friends:-)
Albergue del sol et lua, the best place to meet people! They serve breakfast for about 3 euros and do dinners sometimes on donation. There is a meditation room. It’s not a luxury place, a bit out dated. But friendly and cosy.
Albergue Bela Muxia A faiy new, modern building but with very warm and friendly owners. Good beds, clean.
Next to Bela Muxia you can find hotel restaurant De Lolo. Amazing restaurant! Give yourself a teatment of luxury after all those walks… I would love to spend the night there the second time I was there, but it was closed because of fiestas in town. Had a great dinner there with three Italian men. I had prawns wrapped in crunchy dough on skewers, a very creative and great dish. On the harbour there are also some good restaurants and cafés.